Leather fragrances have historically posed a challenge for many in the perfume world, particularly those who are not deeply entrenched in the world of heady scents. However, recent years have witnessed a growing fascination with leathery compositions, making this fragrance family one of the hottest trends in the industry. In particular, leather and suede scents with an oriental twist have garnered significant attention. Rania Jouaneh, renowned for her nature-inspired, oriental, and premium fragrances, introduced Cuir Andalou in 2016, inspired by the city of Andalusia, historically known for its expertise in tanning and leather craftsmanship.
In this fragrance creation, Rania Jouaneh layers the central theme of leather with a rich tapestry of notes to give it a distinctive character. What stands out in her fragrances is the generous use of high-quality and natural ingredients, but Cuir Andalou prompts one to wonder if the house is charting a new course. While it's tempting to speculate about a shift in Rania J's direction, we must explore several other thick leather fragrances that bear a striking resemblance to Cuir Andalou to fully appreciate its uniqueness.
Upon the first encounter, Cuir Andalou delivers a robust dose of dark, intense leather, akin to pharmaceutical nuances that appeared in some leather compositions, complemented by astringent and somewhat adversarial vetiver. Cuir Andalou is shrouded in a dusky, dust-covered bitterness, purposefully avoiding the transparency of light found in its purported counterpart. As the olfactory journey continues, the rich vetiver leather is bypassed, and it shares some characteristics with Jovoy Paris Private Label, Naomi Goodsir Bois d'Ascese, and Arte Profumi Fumoir.
However, it’s like this perfume is a development in the level of fume and tries to keep the astringent accent of the notes while showing a reputable face.
This fragrance exudes a harmonious blend of wood and leather, with leather boasting a generous infusion of saffron that imparts a suede-like impression and an oriental allure, contrasting beautifully with the earthy vetiver (likely an accord of vetiver, violet, and animalic notes) that imbues the leather with hints of salted patchouli, evoking the essence of hide tanning and raw leather. The initial moments may be somewhat intense and greasy, with a showdown between two facets of leather: a tactile oriental suede and a stern, unyielding darkness.
It takes some time for the scent to mellow into a more pleasing leathery composition, thanks to its enormous tenacity. As oud joins the olfactory journey in the deep heart, the leather becomes smoother, gaining a supple, lavish quality, yet the darkness remains intact.
In conclusion, Cuir Andalou marks a departure from Rania J's earlier works, leaning more towards the current trend of crowd-pleasing oriental fragrances in today's competitive fragrance market. It aspires to capture the essence of Spanish leather compositions like Pea d'Espagne by Santa Maria Novella, but it strikes a balance between the classic, awe-inspiring astringent leather and contemporary preferences.
Cuir Andalou is a journey through the depths of leather, a fragrance that evolves and surprises, ultimately finding its place in the world of oriental perfumery.
$165.00 USD
Andalusia, the romantic southern tip of Spain, where Europe meets Africa. A region known for its ancient walled cities, Moorish arches, and famous leather workshops tucked away on dusty, cobblestone streets. Like the eclectic, vibrant region for which it is… read moreCuir Andalou
