In the realm of artisanal perfumes, Papillon Artisan Perfumes stands out for its meticulously crafted fragrances. Each creation by Liz Moores is a testament to her unique interpretation of classic olfactory themes, ranging from green chypres to warm vanillas. One of the most captivating and talked-about releases from this house is Spell 125, a fragrance that echoes back to Moores' first creation, Anubis, yet branches off into an entirely different direction.
An Ode to Ancient Rituals
Spell 125 takes its name and inspiration from the ancient Egyptian "Book of the Dead," specifically from the ceremonial "weighing of the heart" described in Spell 125. This ritual, overseen by the god Anubis, weighed the hearts of the deceased against a feather to judge their purity. The fragrance embodies this mystical ceremony by balancing contrasting elements, creating an olfactory tension that mirrors the weighing of a heart's sins against its purity. The perfume opens with a striking blend of Green Sacra frankincense and Siberian pine, creating a vivid, ethereal aroma that is both uplifting and grounding.
A Complex and Evocative Composition
The initial blast of Spell 125 is a refreshing whoosh of pine needles intertwined with citrus peel. This sharp, invigorating start is softened by subtle accents of lime and mandarin, which swiftly recede, unveiling a more profound, smoky essence. The transition from the fresh, bright opening to a stark landscape of smoldering ash and feral undertones is mesmerizing. The pine, although less prominent as the fragrance develops, remains a constant, distant presence.
As the perfume evolves, it reveals a mineral quality reminiscent of incense smoke rising slowly from burning papers. This smoke is neither overpowering nor heavy; it is delicate and reverent, imbuing the fragrance with a ceremonial, almost sacred ambiance. The composition's base notes, dominated by the musky scent of white ambergris, provide a rich, animalistic depth that lingers close to the skin.
A Palette of Elemental Beauty
Spell 125 is a minimalist masterpiece, utilizing a palette of grey ash, green pine, and white ambergris to create a strikingly sparse yet profoundly impactful scent. The coniferous, smoky, and musky tones meld seamlessly, bringing together vegetal, mineral, and animal elements in perfect harmony. This fragrance avoids the sweet amber or soft woods typically found in many perfumes, choosing instead to maintain its raw, unembellished character.
A Transcendent Experience
The atmospheric quality of Spell 125 is difficult to overstate. It possesses a hushed tone that enhances its transporting, ceremonial mood. Unlike the thick, oily nature of Anubis, Spell 125 is airy and resinous, leading the wearer to a place seemingly outside of time and space. It feels primordial, as if it were forged in the elemental chaos of earth, water, wind, and fire. This fragrance is deeply personal, adhering closely to the skin and creating a sacred space for the wearer. It is not a spritz-and-go perfume but an experience that demands to be savored and appreciated in its entirety.
Unique Longevity and Sillage
The longevity and sillage of Spell 125 vary significantly depending on the wearer's skin chemistry. On some, it may last only a few hours, while on others, it clings tenaciously, projecting its mystical aura for an extended period. This variability adds to its enigmatic charm, making it a fragrance that reveals different facets on different individuals.
Notes Breakdown
The notes of Spell 125 include white ambergris, Siberian pine, black hemlock, Green Sacra frankincense, ylang-ylang, and Indian sandalwood. This combination creates a unique fragrance profile that is both complex and harmonious. The initial medicinal, astringent aspect quickly gives way to the rich, resinous heart of the perfume, with a hint of sweetness from the ambergris that supports rather than dominates the composition. The drydown is soft and smooth, with a hint of woody sandalwood that adds a comforting, almost chocolaty warmth.
A Versatile Fragrance
Despite its profound and mysterious nature, Spell 125 is surprisingly versatile. It can be worn in various settings, from intimate gatherings to more formal occasions. Its unique scent profile makes it suitable for those who appreciate the darker, more enigmatic side of perfumery. However, its subtle sweetness and smooth drydown also make it accessible to a broader audience.
Conclusion
Spell 125 by Papillon Artisan Perfumes is a fragrance that transcends traditional perfumery. It is an elemental masterpiece that captures the essence of ancient rituals and combines it with modern craftsmanship. Its complex, evocative composition, atmospheric quality, and unique longevity make it a standout in the world of artisanal fragrances. This perfume is more than just a scent; it is an experience that transports the wearer to a different time and place, creating a sacred space where the balance of light and dark, life and death, is delicately rendered in olfactory form. Spell 125 is a testament to the artistry and vision of Liz Moores, solidifying her place as a master perfumer.
