The House of Isabey, established in 1924, is renowned for its luxurious fragrances, one of which is Lys Noir. Initially released in the same year, Lys Noir has undergone various re-releases, with the latest iteration presented in a stunning Art Deco bottle. The brand, now under the control of Panouage, is sometimes referred to as "Panouge Isabey Lys Noir" on different platforms. However, despite its visually appealing presentation, the contents within have received mixed reviews.
Thefragrance is often described as a deeper, sweeter version of Le Labo's Ylang 49 with a hint of Lys 41. The fragrance doesn't prominently feature white lilies as one might expect from its name. On the initial wear, there’s a noticeable presence of ylang-ylang, champaca flower, and fruitchouli, with only a faint hint of white lilies. As the scent evolves, the white lily note becomes slightly more noticeable but remains a subtle element rather than a dominant one.
The composition of the perfume includes a variety of notes: black pepper, lily, tuberose, heliotrope, narcissus, ebony, sandalwood, patchouli, and musk. Despite these diverse elements, the fragrance maintains a certain linearity and commercial appeal, characterized by a strong presence of white musk and sweet patchouli. This linearity and the somewhat generic "Fruit-Floral" character contribute to its commercial feel, making it less distinctive compared to other high-end fragrances.
Francis Kurkdjian, a well-known name in the perfume industry, is often mistakenly credited with the update of the original 1924 scent. However, Kurkdjian clarified that he was not involved with this fragrance. The confusion likely stems from listings on various fragrance sites. The white musk, a recurring note in many of Kurkdjian’s creations, gives the scent a commercial vibe that may not appeal to everyone. Alongside the intense sweetness of the patchouli, the fragrance’s florals become somewhat indistinct after the initial hour.
While Lys Noir has its appealing aspects, such as the almost tropical, boozy floralcy of champaca and ylang-ylang, these notes are not officially listed. Instead, the fragrance features black pepper, lily, tuberose, heliotrope, narcissus, ebony, sandalwood, patchouli, and musk. The tuberose and narcissus are subtle, almost indiscernible, and the heliotrope barely makes an appearance. There is a slight creaminess that emerges over time, but it is overshadowed by the dominant fruitchouli and ylang-ylang blend.
In essence, Lys Noir's "noir" label is misleading, similar to other fragrances like Coco Noir and Black Opium, which also do not embody the true essence of "noir." The scent profile leans more towards a fruity and musky blend rather than a dark, mysterious fragrance. It is a commercial mix that doesn't particularly stand out in the crowded market of floral fragrances.
The history of Lys Noir is rich and fascinating. The original 1924 edition was presented in a magnificent bottle and coffret designed by the renowned Julien Viard and the famous Sorys House. This fragrance, along with others like Gardenia, La Route d’Emeraude, and Le Mimosa, established the prestige of the Isabey brand. The design has been updated over the years, with significant redesigns in 2014 and 2017, while maintaining the emblematic Art Deco aesthetic of the brand.
Describing Lys Noir as "narcotic" captures its intoxicating and captivating nature. It contrasts sharply with other Isabey fragrances like Gardenia and La Route d’Emeraude, which evoke a sense of romance and innocence. Lys Noir, on the other hand, embodies confidence and allure, much like a sophisticated woman preparing for a night out. The bottle itself hints at the fragrance's seductive nature, setting the stage for what lies within.
The opening of Lys Noir is marked by black pepper, which is fresh and citrusy rather than spicy and overwhelming. This well-balanced note sets the stage for the heart of the fragrance, where lily, tuberose, and narcissus come together in a unique floral blend. The sandalwood milk adds a bittersweet twist, softer and more refined than the traditional sandalwood notes found in masculine fragrances. This element complements the ebony wood, creating a rich and elegant base.
Isabey's fragrances are known for their meticulous blending and high-quality ingredients. The noses behind these creations clearly have a deep understanding of how to craft unique and memorable scents. Lys Noir tells a story through its composition, offering an olfactory experience that stands out in the world of perfumery.
In conclusion, while Lys Noir may not live up to the expectations set by its striking presentation and "noir" designation, it remains a noteworthy fragrance with its own unique charm. Its blend of floral and musky notes, combined with the rich history and craftsmanship of the Isabey brand, make it a fragrance worth exploring for those who appreciate nuanced and complex scents.
Lys Noir
$150.00 USD
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