In 1924, Les Parfums d'Isabey was established in Paris by Maurice Loewe, with backing from the prestigious Rothschild family, aiming to produce high-quality fragrances in opulent packaging. Named after the early 19th-century artist Isabey, the brand gained recognition for its scents, including Gardenia (created in 1924 and revived in 2002) and Bleu de Chine, which debuted in 1925. That same year, Julien Viard designed a crystal masterpiece for Isabey named “Bleu de Chine.” This jewel-like bottle became a collector’s item, with only a few pieces remaining, one of which resides at the “Museum of Perfume” in Grasse, France.
In the design process, Viard collaborated with Crystal Master Ludwig Moser from Karlsbad to create a dark amethyst bottle adorned with hand-painted patterns shaped into lozenges. When it came time to produce a contemporary version of this scent, the original name could not be used as it had been trademarked by another company. Nevertheless, the essence of “Bleu de Chine” was retained, reimagined as an exceptional fragrance housed in a bottle treated with a technique known as “Sublimation.” The contemporary version, launched under the name Fleur Nocturne in 2009, maintained the dark blue color and unique décor of its predecessor.
Jean Jacques, a renowned French perfumer, was responsible for updating and reinterpreting the olfactory elements of the original fragrance, translating them into a modern vernacular. Fleur Nocturne opens with delicate notes of white peaches and apricot blossoms, leading into a heart of lush white flowers. The composition is centered around jasmine, gardenia, and magnolia, with a backdrop of semi-sweet, nectar-like accords. This indulgent heart captures a similar magnolia note found in other luxury perfumes such as Acqua di Parma's Magnolia Nobile, but it is the gardenia that stands out, linking back to Isabey’s cherished Gardenia scent.
The base of the fragrance includes solar notes, patchouli, and vanilla, which serve as fixatives that enhance the longevity and depth of the perfume. The use of high-quality essential oils is evident, as the blend delivers a complex aroma that transitions from creamy floral to a more powdery oriental character, marked by a dry peach note that avoids excessive sweetness, instead lending a subtle powdery quality. As the fragrance develops, vanilla and patchouli emerge, providing a rich oriental finish mixed with lush florals.
The sillage and longevity of Fleur Nocturne are remarkable, with projections reaching up to two meters and the scent lasting for over 12 hours without diminishing. This performance underscores Isabey’s status as a niche brand committed to quality and uniqueness, setting it apart from mass-market offerings which often lose their intensity quickly.
Throughout its evolution, Isabey has managed to strike a delicate balance between respecting its heritage and embracing modern innovation. The transformation of the Bleu de Chine flacon into the modern cylindrical glass eau de toilette presentation, reminiscent of a Chinese lantern, symbolizes this blend of tradition and contemporary design. Now under the ownership of Panouge Parfums, Paris, and previously acquired by Marcel Guerlain in 1941, Isabey continues to be a beacon of luxury perfumery.
For anyone exploring options for a memorable occasion, such as a wedding, Fleur Nocturne deserves consideration. Its ability to weave historical craftsmanship with contemporary artistry makes it not only a tribute to its predecessors but also a standout fragrance in its own right. As it stands, Fleur Nocturne is a testament to Isabey's enduring legacy and innovative spirit in the world of perfumery.
